» La Galleria restaurant
Andrew Kay finds that things are buzzing at La Galleria in Shoreham-by-Sea
On a dismally cold January evening the drive through Hove towards Shoreham was less than inspiring. The post Christmas blues had set in, the wind was icy and every restaurant we passed on the way was desolate. It was culinary tumbleweed season.
Shoreham still twinkled with lights as we arrived and we parked easily before making our way against the chill breeze to La Galleria. I expected to find the same desolation but I was wrong. In Hove, all were safely gathered in, in Shoreham it was still party season and the place was buzzing.
We were found a table in a corner, my favourite kind with good views of the whole room, and before long we had menus and soft drinks. Yes soft drinks, both Kevin my guest and I were doing that no booze in Jan routine. Ha ha, I hear you laugh, how long will that last? – and you’re right. Only the next night I drowned my sorrows in a can of beer and two bottles of Cherry B that Santa left in my stocking – lord only knows where he found them.
‘‘My platter of salamis and meats with punchy pickles hit exactly the right spot. I was in fighting mood and a carnivorous treat fitted the bill perfectly’’
The menu at La Galleria is stacked with old Italian favourites, nothing scary or wayward in sight and we were both glad of that. Mr E started with mozzarella in carozza, a classic that I also love. It came in huge proportions too, two globes of crumbed and fried cheese with a ramekin of tomato sauce. He cut one open and the inside simply oozed across his plate. I confess that I was envious, it looked delicious and he was more than happy with his choice.
My platter of salamis and meats with punchy pickles hit exactly the right spot. I was infighting mood and a carnivorous treat fitted the bill perfectly. I was also delighted to see mortadella on the plate, its a favourite of mine that is rather neglected here in the UK. Perhaps because it looks a bit Spam like, but then again I am not averse to the occasional slice of Spam.
Garlic bread was an indulgence that we could not resist but one that perhaps we should have as all the portions were generous to say the least. For mains Mr E went all trad on us with a spaghetti carbonara that he declared perfectly eggy rather than creamy. I like the fact that we were as one on the need for that dish to be egg based and not cream. To often it arrives as a creamy sauce with no evidence of egg. I know it may be easier to keep in a stable condition in the kitchen but without egg yolk it simply ain’t carbonara.
My lavish choice of skewers of fish and seafood were great, chargrilled and tasty with a good variety and generous quantity. They came on a bed of spaghetti simply dressed in olive oil with garlic and chilli, a no messing dish this and one that packs a punch. At £12.95 it was also great value. Mr E was too full for pud but I bravely ordered a créme caramel. Now I say brave because all too often this simplest of dishes is ruined by being wrongly constructed or too rapidly cooked. This one was just right, soft, sweet and slippery – I loved it.
Coffee was hot and strong, as I like it. My double espresso perfectly right with a swirling crema on top, the late evening kick that I so needed.
I loved La Galleria, the staff were charming but not over-bearing and the atmosphere was great. A constant flow of people came and went, romantic couples, large parties, old, young… and all were treated with the same care and attention. Next to us a pretty girl celebrated her 18th birthday with her family. The waiters sang to her and she blushed but we all warmed to the real sense that this was a family restaurant lacking in pretense but not without style.
When we finally put on our coats to leave, the staff seemed genuinely disappointed that we were not staying longer. We arrived at 7.30 and it was now half past ten. Time had flown, we had never felt that we had been kept waiting but somehow had spent a happy three hours in Shoreham-by-Sea. It’s easy to see why this place has become such a fashionable place to live.
La Galleria, 22 East Street, Shoreham-by-Sea
01273 440404
www.lagalleriarestaurant.co.uk
